Scientific Name: Brachypelma boehmei
Common Name: Mexican Fireleg Tarantula/ Mexican Rustleg Tarantula
Difficulty: Beginner
Habitat: Terrestrial
Location: Mexico (Guerrero), Belize (New world)
Adult Diagonal Leg Span: 5-6”
Body Length: 2.5-3”
Growth Rate: Slow
Lifespan: 25 years for females/ 8 years for males
Urticaring Hairs: Type III
Brachypelma boehmei are a visually stunning species that make a great display tarantula as they mature and become more comfortable in their enclosures. A great beginner species as they require little for setup or humidity but can become a real challenge of patience as they are remarkably slow growers.
Care
Enclosure setup:
Brachypelma boehmei being a terrestrial species requires an enclosure that favors horizontal space rather than vertical. While not active burrowers they have been observed moving substrate to make hides for themselves. Small cork rounds and flats can be used to create hides and burrows for themselves tarantula to take advantage of and provide an head start and a hide.
Substrate should fill around 2/3” of the spider's enclosure and allow less vertical space above the substrate for the spider to climb. This is important to prevent the potential for falls and abdomen ruptures.
Reptisoil or Zoo Med Creatures soil make excellent choices to keep your tarantula on. When making your own mix it is best to avoid or at minimum sift any top soil to avoid large pieces that could pose a danger to your tarantula. Be mindful as well that coconut fiber can harbor mold growth if kept too damp so should be used sparingly.
Springtails can be safely added to help keep mold at bay. We do however strongly discourage keeping isopods in the same enclosure. A hungry isopod could pose a danger to a molting or recently molted tarantula. Manually removing old food, molts and waste is the safer route to keeping the enclosure clean.
Decor choice should be mindful of sharp edges or points that the spider could fall on or otherwise scrape itself on. Sharp edges can lead to punctured abdomens.
Cork rounds and cork flats are easy go to natural looking hides. Cork flats can be partially buried to create a start to a hide or burrow
Additional decor such as moss or leaf litter should always be invertebrate safe and be free of pesticides, artificial dyes or any harsh chemical as these could be extremely dangerous.
Enclosure size should always be relative to the size of the spider. As a general rule of thumb, the enclosure should be around 3 times the length of the spider inside. Of course, this will change as the spider continues to grow. With Brachypelma being a generally slow growing genus, rehouses will not have to happen too often.
Humidity:
Substrate should be kept relatively dry. Misting a corner or keeping a water bowl filled is generally enough moisture. Even when offering a water bowl it is best to keep the lower levels of the substrate moist to encourage burrowing and help with proper molts. The upper layers should completely dry out between waterings.
Sphagnum moss or Zoo Med Frog Moss can be added as decor to help encourage humid spots.
Temperature:
Brachypelma boehmei require no additional heat source provided ambient temperatures are maintained in the low to mid 70s.
Feeding:
Slings should be fed at a minimum of once per week though more frequent feedings can encourage faster growth. Food can be offered and left in the enclosure but should be removed if unrated with 24 hours to prevent danger to any molting tarantulas. We’ve found that pre killed prey often works best with slings while still in sling lots or small enclosures. As the tarantula grows food can be offered less frequently using the fullness of the abdomen as an indicator. It is common for tarantulas to refuse food or not eat in general as they approach a molt. Hunger strikes can last a few weeks or even months with Brachypelmas.
Food should always be appropriately sized for your tarantula. Food the size of the carapace is always the safest bet. pre-killing prey that is larger or offering multiple prey items can be effective as well.
Molting:
Molting or ecdysis is the process in which a tarantula or other arthropod will shed its exoskeleton in order to grow. For tarantulas there can be several warning signs that this process will take place soon. The most common is denying food. A prominent bald spot or just overall large abdomen can be sign of imminent molting as well. When the time comes your tarantula will usually lay down a bed of webbing to prep their area of choice. Smaller specimens may do this under the substrate while larger and older ones may do it on top out in the open. After this they will flip on to their back to begin the process of shedding their outer layer. This process can take hours, and it is vital to leave the tarantula be. Any disturbance or movement could cause the tarantula to get stuck. Once freed they will appear a bit pail, but their colors will bolden as they harden. It’s important to not offer food until they have hardened as even their fangs are fresh and soft.
Temperament and behavior
Brachypelma boehmei are best described as skittish and likely to kick hairs. While handleable by experienced keepers, it is best to be cautious with this species as they are quick to kick urticating hairs compares to other species and will bolt short distances, this species is best considered for someone looking for a bold and striking display species but not necessarily a species for them to interact with,
Maturity and mating
Males tend to reach maturity within 4-7 years while females can mature around the 8–12-year mark. After the male's final molt, they will have visible tibial hooks and larger pedipalps with distinct emboli (or boxing gloves as some call them). Mature males will appear much fluffier and brighter in color compared to their female counterparts. After maturing a male will actively seek a female to mate with and may appear quite restless and may refuse food. In addition to creating a sperm web to load their emboli these are normal behaviors and should not be any cause for concern. A mature male should be expected to live less than one year after its ultimate molt but have been observed to live longer.
Females will of course out live most males and molt much less frequently if at all as they age.