(Eublepharis Macularius)
Lifespan: 15-20 years
Diet: insectivores
Temperament: Docile
Experience level: Beginner
Leopard Geckos are 7-10” long, crepuscular lizards (meaning they are more active during the early hours of dawn and dusk) that originated from the Middle East and Northern India. They have segmented tails that can grow back when dropped but usually never look the same. Leopard geckos are semi-arid lizards that like spots of high humidity to help them shed and keep their skin soft. They can live up to 20 years with some reaching to 30! So, prepare to keep this pal around for a long time! They can come in a large variety of colors and patterns as well.
Enclosure
What size enclosure do I need?
Leopard geckos are naturally curious and enjoy exploring their surroundings. The minimum enclosure size for a leopard gecko is 30x12x12 but larger is always better! Ultimately, the best living conditions for leopard geckos will depend on a variety of factors, including their individual needs and preferences. Front opening enclosures are always our favorite option as sometimes going in from above can scare your gecko. Many of the predators that hunt these guys in the wild come from above so naturally they will feel uncomfortable.
Can you keep leopard geckos together?
This topic is controversial as many do believe housing leopard geckos together is fine. It is…until it isn’t. We do not recommend housing them together as they can be territorial and may fight and injure each other. This is especially the case when males are housed together, or when geckos are housed in an enclosure that doesn’t have enough space for them to get away from each other. So, if you plan to house these guys in the same enclosure, we recommend always going bigger with plenty of space for them to escape or hide.
Lighting
UVB/ UVA
Does my gecko need UVB?
The answer is YES! There are many links and sites that state that leopard geckos do not need UVB but from our experience we claim those statements to be false.
UVB helps to process important vitamins and minerals needed for their bodies to stay healthy and strong. Since they are inside primarily it is up to us to help replicate the sun which they get the UVB from!
A T8 or T5 tube bulb that is 5-6% is best with weaker bulbs around 2% for morphs like albinos. UVB should cover about half of the enclosure with most of it being near the basking bulb for better results. UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so you can’t give your leo UVB by placing its enclosure in front of an open window.
How to measure UVI (strength of the UVB)
The best way to measure UVI (UV index) in your leopard gecko’s enclosure is with a Solarmeter 6.5 or equivalent. You will point it at the light, and it should read 4.0-6.0 with everywhere else being lower. Remember the higher your cage the less it will reach towards the bottom. That is why it is important to measure to make sure they are getting the right UVB strength!
Heating
Like other reptiles, leopard geckos are cold-blooded, which means that they rely on external temperatures to manage their own body temperature and metabolism. A reptile’s enclosure should offer a range of temperatures to allow them to thermoregulate effectively. In the enclosure there should be a warm side and a cool side. The basking spot should be around 90 degrees with the cool side being near 75 degrees. We do also suggest placing hides on both sides of the enclosure so your gecko can choose its preferred temp. We recommend using an infrared thermometer and a digital thermometer to monitor enclosure temperatures accurately.
By providing your leopard gecko with the appropriate temperature range, you will ensure that your pet stays healthy!
Humidity
Leopard geckos do best in an environment with 30-40% humidity but may need spots where the humidity is higher. Providing your leopard gecko with access to a humid hide is a great way to ensure your leopard gecko will be able to stay well-hydrated and shed more easily. This hide should function as a humid burrow to which your leopard gecko can retreat whenever it needs a bit of extra moisture or to cool down.
If you use paper towels, it should be replaced every 1-3 days to ensure it stays clean. If you use sphagnum moss, it should be replaced every 2-4 weeks.
Substrate
Loose Substrate
You may have heard that using loose substrate as bedding for your leopard gecko can lead to impaction, a blockage of the intestine that hinders proper digestion. While this statement does hold some truth, especially for substrates like calcium-based sand, there are safer naturalistic substrates available that can provide enrichment and enhance the appearance of your gecko's enclosure.
When using a loose substrate, it is important to choose the right type and frequently monitor the temperature and humidity in the enclosure. If the environment is too hot or too cold, it can negatively impact your gecko's natural processes and increase the risk of impaction. When the gecko is healthy, it can generally ingest small amounts of substrate without any problems. By selecting a safe substrate option and feeding your gecko on tongs or in a bowl, you can help ensure that your pet stays healthy and happy.
Substrate mixes are also a great option. You can mix several commercial substrates or create your own mixture. We suggest using a mixture of 40% organic topsoil, 40% play sand, and 20% excavator clay.
Flooring Alternatives
As a reptile owner, it's important to carefully consider the type of bedding you use in your gecko's enclosure. While some keepers prefer loose substrate, others opt for alternative options that offer a range of benefits.
Some options to consider are paper towels, non-adhesive shelf liner, or ceramic/slate tiles. These materials make it easy to monitor your gecko's health, as well as clean and maintain their enclosure.
When using materials such as paper towels or non-adhesive shelf liner, it's essential to clean and wipe down your gecko's enclosure more often than with loose substrate. This helps prevent the buildup of bacteria and mold, which can be harmful to your pet's health.
To maintain a clean and healthy environment, we recommend wiping down the enclosure with a reptile-safe disinfectant about once a week, or anytime the animal defecates. Be sure to remove any soiled bedding and replace it with fresh material as needed.
However, we do NOT recommend carpets or fabrics for floor lining of your leopard geckos enclosure. These materials can harbor harmful bacteria and can be terrible on their delicate paws. Their claws can get caught in the fabrics and ultimately lead them to tearing out which can be very painful!
Can bioactive work for leopard geckos?
Absolutely!!
Bioactive enclosures can be a good choice of housing for leopard geckos because it gives them plenty of substrate to dig in and it’s generally more attractive than other options. Bioactive enclosures have the additional benefit of eliminating the need for total clean outs, and a healthy vivarium always has a fresh, earthy aroma.
Some downsides of bioactive for leopard geckos are that they require at least one month to get established before the animal is introduced, which can be inconvenient. The plants that you use need to be sturdy enough to withstand the gecko’s activity and non-toxic. CUC (Clean Up Crew) organisms will get occasionally eaten, and maintenance in the form of plant care and occasional partial soil replacements are still necessary. Bioactive is also usually more expensive to set up in the short-term. You can use commercially prepared substrates for your leopard gecko, but we advise to never use calcium sand and make sure substrates are free of harmful dyes.
Plants that are safe for leopard geckos
· Hoya
· Sempervivum
· Jade plants
· Haworthia
· Echeveria
· Canopy
· Ponytail palm
· Snake plants
· Aloe
· Elephant bush
· Arid plants like Spanish moss
Good options for CUC (clean up crew) for a bioactive leopard gecko enclosure include dwarf white isopods, powder orange/blue isopods, springtails, mealworms, and blue death-feigning beetles!
Décor
Providing environmental enrichment for your leopard gecko can greatly improve its quality of life by keeping it stimulated and engaged. Adding carefully selected décor can encourage natural behaviors and exercise, leading to a happy and healthy pet.
As previously mentioned, providing multiple hides is recommended, with one placed on the warm side and one on the cool side of the enclosure, along with humid hides. We also recommend adding other items such as fake plants or cork bark which can create a more naturalistic and stimulating environment. Some great options to include in your enclosure are:
- Small logs or branches
- climbing rocks
- artificial plants
- more hides!
Food
What do leopard geckos eat?
Leopard geckos are insectivores, which means that they need to eat a variety of insects to get the right nutrition. Juvenile leopard geckos should be fed every day, young adults should be fed every 2-3 days, and adults should be fed every 3-5 days depending on body condition.
Offer 2 insects per 1 inch of your gecko’s length, or however much they will eat in 15 minutes. Insects should be roughly the size of the space between the gecko’s eyes.
What are the best feeder insects for leopard geckos?
Use a rotation of at least three different kinds of feeders to meet your gecko’s nutrition needs. Here are some good options:
- dubias
- discoids
- American roaches
- crickets
- black soldier fly larvae
- hornworms
- silkworms
- mealworms
- superworms
Vitamins and Supplements
Do leopard geckos need vitamins?
Yes!
Leopard geckos need their vitamins too! We use repashy calcium plus for our leopard geckos along with other vitamins and supplements! Leopard geckos generally like the taste of calcium and would often lick at it when provided in a bowl placed in their enclosure. You can also dust their insects to help them get the nutrients they need! Supplying your leopard gecko with these basic supplements/ vitamins can help them live long and happy lives!
WATER
Of course, don’t forget a small water bowl for your gecko to drink from! Change the water daily and always clean the water bowl.
Health
Does my leopard gecko need a vet?
The answer is YES!
Dogs and cats aren’t the only pets who need veterinary care. Going for yearly checkups and exams will benefit both you and the health of your pet! Just like any animal sometimes things happen and going to the doctor will help. If you notice that your gecko has any of the following symptoms, make an appointment with an experienced reptile vet right away:
- Noisy breathing
- Mucus discharge from the mouth/nose/eyes
- Persistent lethargy
- Unexplained weight loss
- Persistent lack of appetite
- Straining/inability to defecate
- Large patches of missing scales
- Open wounds
- Swelling or bumps anywhere on the body
- Sudden, unusually aggressive behavior
Last note
Remember to NEVER give your leopard gecko insects from the wild. Wild insects can carry diseases and parasites that could harm your leopard gecko. You should only give them insects/ prey from reliable sources that are bred pacifically for exotic pets.
Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet to help prevent the spread of diseases and parasites. Zoonotic diseases like salmonella can be passed on from reptiles to humans.
Always clean up after your pet and practice proper hygiene!