Bearded Dragon Care Guide

Bearded Dragon Care Guide


Introduction

Bearded dragons (Pogona vitticeps) are 18-24” terrestrial lizards native to central Australia. They are recognized as semi-arid lizards that prefer shrubland-like environments with many things to climb and explore. Bearded dragons are a very popular pet for their calm and docile demeanor and easy to care for qualities. Before you decide to get yourself one of these awesome pets here are some things you should know!

Enclosure

The minimum size recommended by leading experts for housing one bearded dragon is 48”L x 24”W x 24”H, or 120 gallons. Bearded dragons are terrestrial so a lot of ground space with things to climb on is needed. Some hides and other items they can duck under for cover will certainly make your dragon happy.

Can you keep bearded dragons together?

The answer is NO!

Beardies are very territorial and will go after other dragons when the opportunity arises. Though there are lots of videos and pet stores that house these guys together but trust us. They are happier with you and their own space.

Lighting

UVB/UVA:

Bearded dragons need UVB lights to help keep them healthy! Without it your dragon can get very sick, and this can lead to MBD (metabolic bone disease) and worse. UVB helps your dragon process important vitamins and minerals needed for their bodies to stay healthy and strong. Since they are inside primarily it is up to us to help replicate the sun which they get the UVB from!

A T5 HO 10.0 UVB light is the best for your dragon and should cover about half of the enclosure with most of it being near the basking bulb for better results. UVB is blocked by glass and plastic, so you can’t give your beardie UVB by placing its terrarium in front of an open window. 

How to measure UVI (strength of the UVB)

The best way to measure UVI (UV index) in your bearded dragon’s enclosure is with a Solarmeter 6.5 or equivalent. You will point it at the light, and it should read 4.0-6.0 with everywhere else being lower. Remember the higher your cage the less it will reach towards the bottom. That is why it is important to measure to make sure they are getting the right UVB strength or to adjust decor so they can reach better!

Heating

Bearded dragons like it hot with their basking spot being between 110-113 degrees. You can reassure this with a heat gun or an inferred reader. They like the area temp of their enclosures to be about 80 degrees with the cool side being close to 75 degrees. At night beardies don’t mind it being cool so you can shut those lights off at night. They can go as low as 60 degrees and don’t worry; the cold helps them sleep better! But if your house gets lower than 60 degrees then perhaps you might want to think about a small ceramic heat emitter to keep it from going below that temp.

What heat light should I use?

That is a good question! A halogen heat lamp will suffice, or a name brand heat lamp made specifically for reptiles. Just remember to make sure the lamp can take on the wattage of the bulb that is needed. We do not recommend colored light bulbs as reptiles can see in variants of colors and we don’t think anyone would like to be in a red room. Heat emitters work great as well! The only thing about them is they don’t give off any light so other sources might be needed if you want some light in your dragon’s enclosure.

Humidity

As a semi-arid species, bearded dragons should have average humidity levels between 30-60%. So, a light misting every now and then will be beneficial to them. Remember they are from the shrub lands of Australia and the humidity can spike in the morning and evening. Take cation though! Poor circulation of air flow can also cause the humidity to spike and linger and when exposed to humid environments for long periods of time can make your dragon sick! So, make sure they have plenty of vents for air flow

Substrate

Play sand or desert mixes are best if they have been cleaned and sanitized. Layer the substrate at least 4” thick to give your beardie room for burrowing. Avoid wood mulch/bark substrates, paper-based substrates, or substrates with dyes as this can cause your dragon to get sick or impacted.

To keep the substrate clean and your dragon healthy, remove old food and waste every day, along with contaminated substrate. You will need to completely remove and replace your substrate every 3-4 months if the tank is not already bioactive.

What about impaction?

Though it is a controversial topic, we believe that substrate for a healthy dragon is fine. Proper husbandry, hygiene, and diet will keep your dragon healthy and avoid possible impactions.

What about bioactive enclosures?

Absolutely! Bioactive enclosure can be great for your dragon and gives them the benefit of having a replica of the wild in their own space! With their enclosure being bioactive it saves time on the clean up and with live plants gives your dragon something to forage from! Just make sure they are safe plants within their enclosure. With the enclosure being bioactive you’re gonna need a cleanup crew and there are many options to choose from! Dwarf white isopods, powder orange/blue isopods, springtails, superworms, mealworms, and dermestid beetles! These guys help keep the enclosure clean of waste and mold!

Décor

A bare enclosure is a boring enclosure, not just for you but also for your dragon. You can add many items to their enclosure from fake plants (make sure they are larger than their mouth. Don’t want them eating the fake plants) Sticks, logs, rocks and other décor!

Live plant options for bearded dragons

Because bearded dragons are omnivorous and when given the chance will nibble on their live plants. So, we want to make sure the plants that are placed in there are safe.  Here are some plants that are safe for dragon!

  • Aloe
  • Christmas cactus
  • Echeveria
  • Elephant feed
  • Gasteria
  • Haworthia
  • Iceplant
  • Jade plant
  • Mother of pearl plant
  • Opuntia (spineless variety)
  • Sempervivum

 

What do I feed my bearded dragon?

Bearded dragons are omnivorous, which means that they need to eat both plant- and animal-based foods to get the nutrition they need. The food that they need is mostly insects and leafy greens. Variety is the key to providing a healthy, balanced diet for your beardie. The more variety you can provide, the better!

Here are some good options:

Most vegetables in your beardie’s diet should be leafy greens, such as:

  • alfalfa
  • arugula/rocket
  • cactus pads
  • carrot greens
  • cress
  • collard greens
  • dandelion greens
  • dill
  • endive
  • kale
  • mustard greens
  • red leaf lettuce
  • romaine lettuce
  • spinach
  • turnip greens

Other vegetables can be used on an occasion:

  • bell pepper
  • carrots
  • celery
  • cilantro
  • green beans
  • mint leaves
  • squash
  • sweet potato
  • wheat grass
  • zucchini

You can also use flowers to spruce up your beardie’s salads! Clover, dahlia, hibiscus, dandelion, and nasturtium are great options and there are brands that sell these flowers readily.

It’s tempting to give your dragon what they love but these items should be given sparsely or not at all. Dragons do not have the enzymes to break down fructose so if you are to give your dragon a sweet treat, make sure to do it at a minimum.

  • apple
  • banana
  • blackberry
  • blueberry
  • cherry
  • fig
  • grape
  • mango
  • papaya
  • peach
  • pear
  • raspberry
  • strawberry

Water

Bearded dragons having water is a controversial topic. When provided the right amount of live prey and fresh greens bearded dragons can consume enough fluids needed. Though providing fresh flowing water is always encouraged. Bearded dragons cannot see standing water and sometimes will not understand that it is their water bowl. So, a small pet water fountain will be the best for your dragon. Remember to always provide fresh, clean water for your dragon and to never pick them up when they are drinking. There is a chance they could suffocate when picked up as the water may be inhaled instead.

Vitamins

Vitamins help everyone including your dragon! We recommend to dust insects or salads weekly to get the best nutrition for your dragon. Depending on the situation and the husbandry of your dragon will depend on what vitamins will work best. We use Repashy calcium plus or calcium without vitamin D.

Health

Should I take my beardie to the vet?

That answer is YES!

Cats and dogs aren’t the only animals that need a vet. Your reptile does too and yearly checkup visits will benefit your dragon and ensure they have a healthy and happy life! Also, things happen and sometimes your dragon might get sick. You should always take your dragon to a vet when they become lethargic or if their behavior changes!

 

Last note

Remember to NEVER give your bearded dragon insects or flowers from the wild. Wild insects can carry diseases and parasites that could harm your bearded dragon. You should only give them insects/ prey from reliable sources that are bred pacifically for exotic pets. Flowers from the wild can also be sprayed with chemicals and pesticides that can upset your bearded dragon’s tummy, so it is important to purchase/ or grow them yourself in areas that are safe. Make sure to thoroughly clean your vegetables and greens before giving to your pet.

Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet to help prevent the spread of diseases and parasites. Zoonotic diseases like salmonella can be passed on from reptiles to humans.

Always clean up after your pet. A happy pet is a clean pet. Always practice proper hygiene!

 

Frogtown is always here to help with any questions or concerns!

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