(Python Regius)
Lifespan: 20-30 years
Diet: carnivore
Temperament: Docile
Experience level: Intermediate
Ball pythons are a terrestrial species of constricting snake native to regions of eastern, central, and western Africa. In the wild they are most often found in semi-arid grasslands, sparse woodlands, and in farm fields, sheltering in burrows and hollow logs. These snakes are crepuscular, which means that although they are active at night, they are most active around dawn and dusk. Like other snakes, ball pythons are carnivorous, and they use this time to hunt prey such as rodents and birds. They are very popular due to their docile nature and manageable size. Ball pythons can be great for first timers but there are some things you need to know.
Enclosure
When it comes to choosing a terrarium for pet ball python, keep in mind that larger is always better! There is a common myth that ball pythons prefer small, cramped spaces, but this is not true. Tiny enclosures that prevent a ball from being able to full stretch out as needed promote obesity as well as decrease the snake’s overall quality of life. So, the minimum enclosure size recommended for an adult ball python is 4’x2’x2’. Ball pythons reach full maturity between 2-3 years of age. It’s best to choose a front-opening enclosure with a covered top, which makes accessing the snake much easier (and less startling for the snake).
Can we keep ball pythons together?
You should never keep ball pythons together.
Lighting
Ball pythons are crepuscular (active at night, particularly dawn and dusk), so they benefit from having a light in their enclosure to regulate their day/night cycle.
There is a common myth that ball pythons are stressed by light. There is another myth that snakes do not “need” UVB light for survival and therefore providing it as part of their habitat in captivity is unnecessary. Both are false and do not reflect the snake’s native habitat. Our goal as good reptile keepers is not to simply allow our pets to survive — it is to do everything in our power to enable them to thrive. And there is mounting scientific evidence that UVB is, in fact, beneficial to ball pythons and other snakes.
UVB/UVA:
We recommend installing a T5 HO ReptiSun 5.0. The light fixture should be long enough to cover about 1/2 of the enclosure’s length. So, for a 48” long enclosure, you will want a bulb about 22-24” long. Remember UVB cannot go through plastic or glass so make sure the light is secured inside or above the screen enclosure.
How to measure UVI (strength of the UVB)
The best way to measure UVI (UV index) in your ball python’s enclosure is with a Solarmeter 6.5 or equivalent. You will point it at the light, and it should read 1.1-3.0 with everywhere else being lower. Remember the higher your cage the less it will reach towards the bottom. That is why it is important to measure to make sure they are getting the right UVB strength or to adjust decor so they can reach better.
Heating
Because ball pythons are reptiles, they are cold-blooded, and that means that they need a range of temperatures within their enclosure so they can regulate their own body temperature as needed. Areas of heat speed up their metabolism and promote activities like digestion and healing. Cool areas slow metabolism and promote activities like rest and energy conservation.
The warm side of a ball python’s enclosure should be between 90-95°F, and the cool side should be between 75-80°F. For best results, place one of your ball python’s hides directly below the heat lamp so it can get nice and warm.
Many ball python keepers recommend using heat pads as the snake’s primary source of heat, but heat pads don’t work well in a bioactive enclosure because they must compete with a thick layer of substrate and can become a fire hazard. Instead, use a heat bulb like the Zoo Med Basking Spot Lamp 150 Watt or Philips 100w PAR38 Halogen Flood Heat Bulb in a dome heat lamp. Plug the heat lamp into a lamp dimmer so you can control it if it gets too hot.
The most accurate way to keep track of your terrarium’s temperature gradient is to use a temperature gun. They’re essential for monitoring surface temperature, which is the temperature that your ball python will be feeling on the ground. You can also install a thermostat!
Humidity
Ball pythons are from the humid jungles of Africa, so of course they will need it to be humid. Proper humidity helps not only with shedding but also keeps away illnesses like upper respiratory infections. To be specific, they need an average of 55-65% ambient humidity, with some areas of low humidity (40%) and areas of high humidity (80%) are perfectly acceptable as part of your enclosure’s gradient. Keep track of your humidity levels with a digital hygrometer that you can find at your local store or online. Just make sure it is graded for outdoors and indoors.
A large water bowl will help, but regular misting with distilled water in a pressure sprayer is recommended. It also helps to provide a “humid hide” lined with damp sphagnum moss, which should be the most humid spot in the enclosure.
If you have live plants as part of your bioactive setup, the regular watering that they require will also help keep humidity levels within the appropriate range. Leaves from plants release water into the air, further boosting ambient humidity!
Substrate
To create a bioactive ball python vivarium, you will need a bioactive-compatible substrate. That means things like coconut husk or cypress mulch aren’t going to work on their own. You need a soil-like mix that mimics the conditions of your ball python’s natural habitat. You can make your own with 2 parts organic topsoil, 2 parts Zoo Med Reptisoil (or similar), and 1 part play sand. Adding leaf litter will help keep moisture in and give your clean up crew a place to hide and take shelter while they work.
What is a clean up crew and why do I need them?
A clean-up crew consists of spring tails and isopods or equivalents that are detritivores. Meaning they eat decomposing plant matter, waste, and shed skin to keep your enclosure clean. Springtails will take care of any mold that may form as that is one of their main diets.
Can I keep ball pythons on tiles or carpet?
The answer to that is no. Ball pythons need high humidity to stay healthy. Carpet and tile will only stress them out and dry out their skin. The enclosure doesn’t have to be bioactive but must have substrate to hold humidity.
Décor
Enclosure décor is more than just making your setup look good. It’s also an important part of providing environmental enrichment to your ball python, which enhances your pet’s quality of life by providing opportunities to express natural behaviors, explore, and exercise. And since ball pythons like to hide and occasionally climb, feel free to clutter it up!
Contrary to popular believe, ball pythons are not “pet rocks” that are content to live in a virtually empty box. They are complex animals that we are just beginning to understand. Here are some ideas for ways that you can decorate and enrich your ball python’s bioactive enclosure:
§ hollow cork logs
§ thick, sturdy branches
§ hides/caves
§ plants alive or fake
Live plant options
For a safe and enriching environment for your ball python, consider using these plants
§ Pothos
§ Peperomia
§ Ficus pumila
§ Snake plants
§ Ferns
§ Terrestrial bromeliads
§ Mosses
§ Fittonia
Food
Ball pythons are obligate carnivores, which means that they must eat whole animals in order to get the nutrition they need. There is no replacement. Here is a rough chart of how much and how often you should be feeding your ball python, based on snake weight.
§ >200g — rat fuzzy or small mouse every 7 days
§ 200-350g — rat pup or adult mouse every 7-10 days
§ 350-500g — weaned rat every 10-14 days
§ 500-1500g — small rat every 14-21 days
§ >1500g — medium rat every 28-56 days
Always feed your snake inside its enclosure, not outside. Contrary to the myth, feeding inside does not make snakes more aggressive. Also, use feeding tweezers to offer the rat, not your hand. You should only take snakes out of their enclosure to feed if there are some concerns or directed by your veterinarian.
Variety is essential to complete nutrition. You can add variety to your ball python’s diet with African soft-furred rats, chicks, quail, and Reptilinks. Do not offer live prey if it can be avoided, as live rodents may injure your snake in the process of feeding. Instead, buy frozen prey and thaw to 100°F internal temperature in warm water. We here at FrogTown have seen personally what feeding live can do and vet bills are expensive. We strongly recommend feeding frozen/thaw or switching.
But my ball python will only eat live.
Ball pythons can be very picky eaters and sometimes changing how they eat can take some time. There are a few tricks you can try to convince your picky snake to eat frozen/thaw.
§ Make sure the food is warm enough
§ Dipping the food in chicken broth (sounds crazy but it has worked)
§ Wiggling it to make it look like its alive
§ Braining (not our favorite method.)
§ Make sure the food is dry if you thaw it out in water
§ Use a hair dryer to blow the scent in the enclosure. This will make your snake really hungry.
§ Don’t give up!
Many will eventually give up and give in to their picky snakes after the first few tries. It’s like changing a dog’s diet, it must be gradual. Sometimes it doesn’t take long at all.
Water
Make sure your snake always has access to fresh water. Cleaning the bowl daily will prevent any buildup of algae or slime. We recommend a ceramic or aluminum bowl as these materials are less likely to hold bacteria and washing them in the dishwater is easier to sanitize. Always use fresh water that is either from a bottle or tap. If you use tap water, make sure to dechlorinate it. Chemicals used to keep tap water clean and fresh can often irritate the stomach of your snake.
Vitamins
Ball Pythons don’t normally need vitamins since they get much of the nutrition needed from their food but sometimes adding a little bit of extra vitamins won’t hurt. A 50/50 mix of calcium without D3 and a multivitamin dusted on the prey can be beneficial for older snakes or those recovering from malnutrition.
But remember you should always consult with your vet before giving any over-the-counter medication or vitamins to your pet.
Health
Ball pythons are generally hardy snakes, but they can still experience health issues. Common health issues seen in Ball pythons are
§ Respiratory infections
§ Digestive problems
§ Skin infections
§ Shedding difficulties
§ Metabolic bone disease
§ Neurological problems
Many of these common issues can be prevented with proper husbandry but sometimes genetics can be a factor. Always learn what morph or genetics your snake may be mixed with as certain morphs can carry genes that can affect their quality of life.
Always supervise children closely when they are handling a pet snake (or any kind of pet, frankly). This is as much for the snake’s safety as it is for the child’s. Keep the snake’s head away from your face, and don’t let it wrap around your neck. Ball pythons don’t try to hurt humans, but they are strong enough to cause accidents.
DO NOT Handle If…
Don’t handle your snake within 48 hours of a meal, as this can stress them out and lead to regurgitation. Also do not handle if your pet’s eyes have turned opaque or cloudy. This means that the snake is preparing to shed and can’t see well, making them more jumpy than usual and more likely to bite out of self-defense.
Last note
Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet to help prevent the spread of diseases and parasites. Zoonotic diseases like salmonella can be passed on from reptiles to humans.
Always clean up after your pet. A happy pet is a clean pet. Always practice proper hygiene!