(Salvator Merianae)
Lifespan: 15-20 Years
Diet: Omnivore
Temperament: Defensive/ Docile
Experience level: Experienced
Argentine tegus are particularly large diurnal, terrestrial lizards found in Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay, and Bolivia. This species can grow up to 5’ long, with a large triangular head, forked tongue, robust body, strong limbs, thick tapered tails, strong jaws and clawed feet. Males have prominent jowls around the cheek/throat area. The pattern is black or red with white/cream spots and bands. Argentine tegus are high-commitment pets that need lots of space and things to keep them busy. Think of them like a dog, but with reptilian housing needs, more specific nutrition, and not as tame. They’re not the kind of reptile you can get away with bringing home on a whim!
Enclosure
Argentine tegus are very large lizards that reach physical maturity by roughly 3 years of age, so they need a lot of space even from the beginning. It may seem like too much at first, but they grow into it quickly. The minimum enclosure size for an Argentine tegu is 8’L x 4’W x 4’H, or at 32 sq ft of floor space. Larger is ideal — this is the type of pet that can easily make use of its own room! This enclosure should be front-opening and preferably placed at ground level due to the weight of the substrate and so the tegu can easily enter and exit the enclosure when the door is open.
Can I house two tegus together?
No, tegus should not be housed together. Though there are pictures and documents that they are or can be, most of the time people cannot provide the room to house these giants. To keep them from potentially fighting or becoming stressed its best to keep one per enclosure.
Lighting
UVB/UVA:
Argentine tegus are diurnal, which means that they are primarily active during the day. And as reptiles they need UVB! This helps them maintain a healthy metabolism and immune system, but it also aids in vitamin D3 absorption which can help prevent MBD (metabolic bone disease). The UVB requirements for a tegu should be a T5 Ho 12 to 14% linear bulb. It must be large because well…tegus are big!
How to measure UVI (strength of the UVB)
The best way to measure UVI (UV index) in enclosure is with a Solarmeter 6.5 or equivalent. You will point it at the light, and it should read 3.0-4.0 with everywhere else being lower. Remember the higher the enclosure the less it will reach towards the bottom. That is why it is important to measure to make sure they are getting the right UVB strength or to adjust decor so they can reach better.
For best results place the UVB bulb near the basking area so they can absorb it when they bask.
Heating
Tegus like it HOT. They require a specific temp gradient to thrive with a basking area of 125-135 degrees, a warm side of 90-95 degrees and a cool side of 75-85 degrees. It’s important to provide a basking surface with a temp high enough for your tegu to regulate its body temperature and help in digestion.
You can turn the lights off at night but be sure that nighttime temps do not drop below 65 degrees as this can trigger brumation.
Types of heating methods can be heating mats, ceramic heat emitters, or a halogen heat lamp. Just be sure that the wattage for the lamp can handle the wattage of the bulb.
Humidity
Tegus are from the rainforest, and they need a humid environment for healthy shedding and overall well-being. Typically, they require 70-80% humidity at best. Misting regularly, providing a humidifier, substrate, and plants can all help keep humidity up! You can also provide a humid hide lined with damp sphagnum moss. It should be around 100% humidity inside the humid hide.
Using a hydrometer can help keep you up to date on what the percentage of the humidity is in the enclosure and allows you to correct it if needed.
Substrate
Tegus love to dig and burrow so providing a thick layer of substrate is needed. They also need this substrate to be able to hold humidity. A good mix is 40% organic topsoil, 40% peat moss and 20% play sand. You can also add cypress mulch, sphagnum moss and leaf litter! Remember to always sanitize your substrate before introducing your pet to it. Many of these items can be purchased at your local garden store but these items are not made with the intention that they will be used for pets and pests can get into these substrates. The recommended depth of substrate should be about 12-24 inches to allow digging and natural behavior.
Décor
Starting out as babies’ tegus can get away with normal size hides and branches but as they get older those items also need to get larger. Providing a hide for your tegu is always welcomed and with fake plants for décor. Some use dog houses as hides or purchase specifically made hides for them. Tegus are bulldozers and any live plants will certainly be dug up and flung around. If providing fake plants, make sure that they are not small enough to get into your tegus mouth and possibly eat it. Tegus don’t climb very well but doesn’t mean they won’t if provided with branches and other items to climb on! The more enrichment you provide the happier your tegu is! You can purchase fake plants online or at your nearest store, just make sure to wash them off first!
Live plant options
If you wish to provide live plants for your tegu’s enclosure these plants are known to be safe for them.
· Pothos
· Snake plants
· Palms
· Rubber trees
· Dracaena
· Asparagus fern
· Boston fern
· Bromeliads
· Philodendrons
· Spider plants
· Aluminium plants
Food
Tegus are omnivores and need a vast variety in their diet. They are also walking garbage trucks as they are known for eating anything and everything, but this doesn’t mean they can have everything and anything. Tegus need a balance of meat and greens with a little bit of fruit. It is hard on the internet today to know what exactly what in all they can have since they can…well…have almost anything. Since they are optimistic hunters, they eat what they can in the wild.
§ Hatchlings (0-6 months) — 5x/week (70-80% protein, 20-30% vegetables and fruit)
§ Juveniles (7-12 months) — 4x/week (70-80% protein, 20-30% vegetables and fruit)
§ Subadults (1-2 years) — 3x/week (70-80% protein, 20-30% vegetables and fruit)
§ Adults (>2 years) — 2x/week (60% protein, 30% vegetables, 10% fruit)
Tegus can have:
· Crayfish
· Poultry (make sure bones are small enough)
· Crickets
· Earthworms
· Mealworms
· Snails
· Eggs (raw or cooked)
· Fish
· Mice and other whole prey
· Beef (in moderation or not at all)
· Dubia roaches
· Red runners
· Superworms
· Waxworms
· Silkworms
· Horned worms
· Black soldier fly larvae
· Organ meat
Fruits & Veggies:
· Kale
· Squash
· Zucchini
· Carrots
· Bell peppers
· Callard greens
· Mustard greens
· Turnip greens
· Romain lettuce
· Cilantro
· Dandelion greens
· Hibiscus flowers
· Pumpkin
· Yams
· Papayas
· Mangos
· Kiwis
· Berries like blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries
· Grapes
· Strawberries
· Bananas
· Apple
There are many more tegus can have which can make them an easy pet to feed. There is also information about them having dog food as well, which can be true but should not be a go to for your tegu. Fresh-made food or premade is best. If you are going to give dog food, be sure that it is grain-free and has little to no ingredients. Vitamins and nutrients for dogs are not the same for a tegu lizard.
Water
Tegus need access to fresh, dechlorinated water always. Providing a large water dish or tub for them to soak in is ideal, especially for Colombian tegus. Clean fresh water should be changed daily, as tegus can contaminate it. Soaking tegus in tepid water 15-20 minutes daily can also aid in shedding.
Vitamins
Not only do humans benefit from vitamins, but your tegu does too! Giving them calcium and multivitamins dusted on their food once or twice a week can help keep your tegu healthy and happy. We recommend repashy calcium plus as that is what we use for our tegu! Do keep in mind that if giving calcium with D3 that it is limited. D3 can cause your tegu to get sick as this can be over supplemented and should only be provided if UVB is limited or your tegu is not exposed to it.
Health
Tegus both black & white and Colombian require specialized care to maintain their health. Proper diet, vitamins, temperature regulations, humidity levels and UVB lighting are all important and if one is off this can make your tegu ill.
Common health issues in tegus:
· Obesity
· MBD (metabolic bone disease)
· Scale Rot
· Parasites (round worms, tape worms, giardia)
· Respiratory infections
Taking your tegu to the vet regularly can prevent common disease and parasites. It is always recommended to take them at least once a year for their annual checkups. If your tegu starts showing symptoms of
· Lethargy
· Lumps or bumps
· Weight loss
· Strange behavior
· Vomiting
· Diarrhea
Be sure to take them to the vet right away. Your tegu should always be alert with a good appetite!
Last note
Always wash your hands before and after handling your pet to help prevent the spread of diseases and parasites. Zoonotic diseases like salmonella can be passed on from reptiles to humans.
Always clean up after your pet!
Always practice proper hygiene!